One of the highlights of my first trip to Africa in 2009 was a visit to the Umoja Women’s Village in Kenya. and I visited again recently in 2022.
A small village on the banks of the Ewaso Ng’iro River, next to the Samburu National Reserve, around 380km from Nairobi.
The village is inhabited by members of the Samburu tribe, who are closely related to the Masaai. What’s unusual about this particular village, is that it is only made up of women and their children.
I heard the women coming before I could see them. They were clapping and singing, their wonderful African voices working in perfect harmony. Growing louder as they approached, I was mesmerised by their colourful robes, beaded necklaces, and headwear.
The women performed a number of songs and dances for us to see, thrusting their chest and shoulders forwards, which caused their necklaces to jump up and down as if they had a life of their own.
They sang a song called ‘My Cow is Better Than Your Cow’ and a more serious song called ‘The Vagina Song’ where the women celebrated their bodies and their freedom.
The singing and dancing are very fun to watch, but beneath the surface, there are serious connotations. The Samburu women have endured a lot through the years – rape, female genital mutilation (FGM), forced early marriages (in some cases to MUCH older men), and domestic violence.
The village was started by a Samburu woman called Rebecca Lolosoli in the early 1990s as a safe haven for 15 women who were raped by British soldiers and then became outcasts in their community – rejected and beaten by their husbands for bringing shame on them and their families.
The village is now a safe haven for women and girls to escape the tribe’s outdated practices. Rebecca had the idea for the village whilst in hospital, after being beaten for speaking to the women in her village about their human rights.
In the Samburu culture, men are in charge. They can have multiple wives. They ‘own’ the children. If they want to kill their wives, they are free to do so. It’s obviously against the law in Kenya, but culturally it’s not forbidden and still happens.
Girls are traded off for cows and married young. One lady in the village was married at 11 years old, to a man of 57. When we visited there was a 13-year-old girl in the village who had run away from her husband whilst shepherding the sheep. Thankfully, she managed to find the village.
The word Umoja actually means ‘unity’ in Swahili and the women work as a cooperative, selling jewellery and offering tours of the village to tourists to make money. There’s also a campsite next to the village (where I stayed the first time I visited).
The women also educate women and girls from nearby villages on the issues they are facing and their rights. They have since inspired other women to do the same and more women’s villages have appeared in the area. At Umoja, the women are free.
They still don’t have it easy though. On my latest visit in 2022, Rebecca told me that the men will often attack the village and come looking for their wives and children. It’s a constant battle.
If you’d like to learn more, the best way to support the village is by visiting or donating money directly.
Visiting the Umoja Women’s Village in Kenya offers a unique insight into a community founded as a sanctuary for women escaping various forms of oppression. Established in 1990 by Rebecca Lolosoli, Umoja—meaning “unity” in Swahili—is located near Archers Post in Samburu County, approximately 380 kilometers north of Nairobi.
How to Get There:
- By Road: From Nairobi, embark on a journey north towards Isiolo, then proceed to Archers Post. The trip covers about 380 kilometers and typically takes around six hours by car. Given the varying road conditions, especially during the rainy season, it’s advisable to use a 4×4 vehicle.
- By Air: Daily flights operate from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport to Samburu Airport, located near the Samburu National Reserve. From the airport, it’s a short drive to Archers Post and subsequently to Umoja Village.
Visiting the Village:
- Guided Tours: Upon arrival, local guides offer tours of the village, providing insights into its history, culture, and daily life. Engaging with the residents allows visitors to understand the challenges they’ve overcome and the empowerment initiatives they’ve undertaken.
- Cultural Experiences: Visitors can participate in traditional Samburu activities, including beadwork sessions, traditional dance performances, and storytelling. These experiences offer a deeper appreciation of the Samburu heritage and the resilience of the Umoja women.
Supporting the Community:
- Handicrafts: The women of Umoja are renowned for their intricate beadwork. Purchasing jewelry and crafts directly from their on-site shop supports their economic independence and sustains the village.
- Donations: Contributions towards the village’s education and healthcare initiatives are welcomed. Such support aids in the community’s ongoing development and the well-being of its members.
Accommodation:
- Umoja Campground: For an immersive experience, visitors can stay at the Umoja Campground, which offers basic facilities and the opportunity to engage closely with the community. Alternatively, accommodations are available in nearby Archers Post or within the Samburu National Reserve.
Important Considerations:
- Cultural Sensitivity: Umoja is a sanctuary for women who have faced significant challenges. Visitors should approach with respect, understanding, and an open mind.
- Advance Arrangements: It’s recommended to contact the village in advance to arrange visits, especially for larger groups, to ensure a meaningful and organized experience.
Visiting the Umoja Women’s Village not only provides a unique cultural experience but also supports a community that stands as a testament to resilience and empowerment.
